When Marigold Kitchen, 118 S. Pinckney St., the very popular new lunch spot opened, I was, admittedly, skeptical. After all, it was essentially occupying the spot that once held the Pinckney Street Hideaway, the much-loved and much-revered tavern that had catered to businesspeople, senators and punks for decades, and me for years. The Hideaway had the history, the reputation and just the right amount of grime around the edges to make it one of those spots that leave a permanent impression in your mind. It served some pretty mean bar food as well. I failed to see how it could be replaced by something called Marigold.
As time passed, though, the buzz about Marigold Kitchen grew, and so did the crowds trying to find a table. I was intrigued. Then the September issue of Bon App??tit magazine arrived in my mailbox. (Note to Barbara Fairchild: I would be happy to continue to shamelessly plug your magazine if it will in any way help me get published in it. Seriously. No, really, seriously.) There, in the listing of \Great Neighborhood Restaurants'Midwest,"" was Marigold Kitchen and their recipe for Chocolate-covered Coconut Macaroons.
""That does it,"" I thought. ""If it's good enough for Barbara Fairchild and Bon App??tit, it's good enough for me."" (See. Seriously.) So I went to see if it was any good. It was.
Marigold Kitchen has a warm, bright interior that makes you feel welcome as soon as you enter. It was decorated for autumn on my visit, so pumpkins and dried corn stalks dotted the dining room.
Ordering is done at the counter (there is no table service), which has an almost coffee-shop feel to it. What comes over that counter, though, reminds you quickly that you are definitely not in a coffee shop. The food came quickly, a surprising thing considering the place was literally buzzing with people and activity.
I opted for the Cuban-style Grilled Pork sandwich, which came on a nicely toasted ciabatta bread with tomato, romaine lettuce, ricotta-like farmer's cheese and a zesty onion and citrus compote (a fruit-based reduction sauce). The pork was cooked perfectly, with a nice browning on the edges. Seasoned with rosemary, thyme and black pepper, the grilled meat meshed perfectly with the almost anise-tasting fruit sauce. Combine this with the ciabatta, and this is a burly sandwich that could easily be shared. The only weak part of the sandwich was the farmer's cheese, which, while fresh, added little except a slightly odd texture at times.
The sandwich came with a generous pile of a lightly dressed red cabbage salad on the side. The salad was a nice, though slightly meek, complement to the pork. The fennel seeds scattered throughout, though, added bursts of anise when you least expected it. I also ordered a side of French-Style Potato Salad, which made a good first impression. That impression soon faded, however, as the heavily-dilled red-skin potatoes almost drowned in their vinegary mayonnaise dressing. I should say, though, that this salad was still superior to almost any of the bland deli potato salads you will find in every grocery store in Madison. Marigold Kitchen is superior to just about every lunch spot as well.
By the way, I didn't try the macaroons. What can I say? I don't like coconut. But you should try them. Seriously. Bon App??tit! (I'll wait for your call, Barbara.)
On another note, the other day, as I walked through Library Mall, carrying a steaming portion of Dirty Rice from Val's Cookout Express, I noticed a young man eating lunch as he walked. Well, maybe lunch is too strong of a word. Unless you consider cold SpaghettiOs being eaten directly from the can lunch. If you do, that's your prerogative. I don't. Not even close. What I do consider it as, is depressing. And also inspiring. It has spurred me to action, to save students across this campus from the oppression of expensive, bad lunch food, and at the same time, open their eyes to the culinary (and economic) joys of cooking. To that end, I will periodically be including yummy and simple lunch recipes that even guys eating SpaghettiOs out of a can (out of the CAN?!) can make. And here's the economic part'the ingredients for the recipes will NEVER total more than $2.50. I repeat, never! All of these recipes will come right out of my own head. So look for the first one in two weeks, and until then, at least dump Chef Boyardee's latest nonperishable masterpiece into a bowl. Yeesh.
