Ambience in a neighborhood bar can be a double-edged sword. While a close-knit vibe among regulars creates an atmosphere conducive to seeing old friends and catching up on local happenings and gossip, this feeling can have a negative impact on customers as well.
Especially if you're not a regular. On occasion, neighborhood bars greet newcomers with the sort of attitude you'd expect if Mike Ditka were to walk in at the Green Bay Packer Hall of Fame.
With that in mind, I approached the Harmony Bar, 2201 Atwood Ave., with a bit of apprehension. Although the place has gotten good reviews for its eclectic food offerings and a down-to-earth atmosphere, it's also known as a neighborhood bar.
I couldn't help but feel like a neighborhood outsider when I walked in. Just a block away from the Barrymore Theater, 2090 Atwood Ave., the Harmony Bar serves an area that is definitely \Old Madison."" Those who bemoan the commercialization of State Street should head out to Atwood Avenue, where independently owned stores serve aging hippies and counter cultural types.
At the Harmony Bar, where Atwood's finest come for food and drink, the average age is about 45, the average political leaning is far left, and the average outfit is sweatpants, a T-shirt and Birkenstocks. No one here will ever be confused for a regular at Blue Velvet, 430 W. Gilman St., or the Kollege Klub, 529 N. Lake St.
Although the clientele in and of itself didn't make me feel uneasy, the service at the place was almost discriminatory. Twice, I visited the bar, and both times I was greeted with a ""lemme see some ID's, kiddo"" before I could even order anything. Before long, I was half-expecting the bartenders to send me to a fold-up kiddie table with chips and Kool-Aid.
Despite the semi-hostile servers at the Harmony Bar, the place certainly has its high points. A half-dozen televisions almost constantly tune in sporting events, giving the bar a sort of Caribou-meets-Damon's relaxed sports bar feel. Appropriately enough, I watched the Brewers lose twice at the Harmony.
Also, the dining room transforms into a bona fide music venue for the weekends, hosting some great local and national blues and rock bands.
If you're coming to see a show at the Harmony Bar, you'd be best off if you did your eating elsewhere. My samplings had limited success.
Best was the Portabella Mushroom Sandwich ($5.95), which came topped with a rich garlic mayo that accented the jumbo-sized mushroom very well. In case the fancy sandwich made me forget I was in a bar, there was a bag of Barrel O' Fun chips on the side.
I didn't have much fondness for the Marinated Tuna Plate ($8.95). The miniature steak has roughly the same dimensions as a couple of fish sticks laid side by side and features a weird combination of flavors best left separate. The tuna's pineapple chutney was far too intense, tasting something like a can of Del Monte tropical mix smeared atop the steak. Accompanying the tuna was a half-helping of Sesame Noodle Salad, which had a nice tangy bite but was far too small when paired with the tiny steak.
After sampling the so-so entrees, I thought I might give some traditional bar favorites a try on a subsequent visit. The Veggie Nacho Plate ($5.95) was a total disappointment.
Having tried some great nachos at places like the Great Dane, 123 E. Doty St., and the Oakcrest, 1421 Regent St. I was expecting something good. My hopes were futile. Not only was the serving size pathetically small, but the arrangement was haphazard at best: chips stuck together by overcooked cheese, topped with a fist-sized mound of sour cream and jalapenos. Salsa was practically nowhere to be found.
The Harmony Deluxe Pizza ($13.95) was better, if only by a little bit. Although it came topped with sausage, pepperoni, onions, green peppers, black olives and mushrooms, it wasn't enough to make for a $14 pizza. Twelve inches in size and with a nondescript crust, the pie tasted only slightly better than something out of my freezer at home.
Although the Harmony Bar has some merits, like interesting customers and a relaxed atmosphere, you're best off going somewhere else if you want an enjoyable night out.
But, if you still own a pair of Earth Shoes, don't drive a car and voted for Paul Soglin the first time, you might find a welcome place in the Harmony Bar.
