It seems only proper that the little building at 1225 Regent St., former home of the scrappy hot dog joint Dog Eat Dog, would retain its independent streak even with a change in ownership. Those mourning the loss of the greasy Chicago-style haven can drown their sorrows in espresso and other libations at Indie Coffee, the java shop now taking Dog Eat Dog's place.
It's not hard to discern exactly where the \indie"" comes in here. True, when first walking in the door at midday, you get a distinctly Door County-esque impression, as though you've suddenly become a tourist stopping for a caffeine perk between visits to studiously quaint seaside shops.
Perhaps it's the airy openness of the place, the pale sea-foam green walls or the sunny black-eyed susans illuminating the center of each of the store's dark tables. Or, less subtly, the jar of Door County Cherry biscotti beckoning from the cashier's counter. The initial ambience momentarily transforms you from a comfortable townie into a curious visitor.
However, that feeling quickly fades when you notice that the pastel posters on the walls advertise the New Pornographers, the Decemberists playing at the Catacombs, and, fondly, Club 770 at Union South. These gentle local touches-along with old photos of Madison adorning the walls and the fact that the drink sizes are labeled ""Wingra,"" ""Monona"" and ""Mendota"" rather than with pretentious Italian adjectives-immediately envelop you with the comforting sensation that Indie Coffee really does call Madison home.
According to J.J. Kilmer, half of the married couple who owns the business, Madison is where they belong. The couple graduated from UW-Madison in the late '80s and lived in Chicago for 10 years before migrating back to the college town they loved.
Neither one had any experience in the coffee business---J.J. worked in public relations and advertising, Barrett for a trade magazine-but the sight of the old Victor Allen's on State Street during a visit was their inspiration for returning to Madison and starting their own shop.
J.J. said they had to wait several years to move back, when opportunity arrived in the form of Dog Eat Dog's departure.
""The timing was right,"" she remembered, adding that the building they now occupy was a big factor in bringing their business to the Greenbush neighborhood.
""I thought, 'What a sweet little building,'"" she said, smiling as she related the nostalgia that drew her to the place. Apparently 1225 Regent has been a restaurant in some form since it was built in 1946 by a man who named it after his young daughter. J.J. has met the namesake of Patty Ann's Caf?? herself-the girl is now a little taller and a little older, making it hard for her to run through the small hallways of the shop like she used to-but she reminisced with the owners about her time there.
After Patty Ann's, the little building was named Rainbow's End, then Wild Iris and, finally, Dog Eat Dog.
Now it's Indie Coffee, but the sense of nostalgia still remains. J.J. and Barrett are preserving its independent history through the music they play in the shop, the posters on the wall-and with indie film.
Look to the left when you first enter and notice the blank wall above a whitewashed fireplace mantel adorned with film reels. Look to the right and you'll see a small wooden frame on the wall. Behind that was formerly a closet; now, it houses several of the Kilmers' film projectors and the film reels they've been collecting-and creating-over the years.
""I saw the closet there and thought, 'There's our projection room,'"" J.J. recalled. ""We did our own Super 8 movies in Chicago ... really goofy stop-action photography.""
She said she's not sure they'll be showing those in the shop, but she does hope they can screen movies from the 1940s with music of their choice as a soundtrack in the background-Radiohead, for example. J.J. says doing so creates a completely new mood for the old films.
""Music has that kind of power,"" she said, and it's clear that she and her husband have made Indie Coffee a perfect homage to inspiration.
For now, the Kilmers are just setting up the logistics of film showings, but you can still enjoy the ambience while you wait. Indie radiates warmth at any time of day. The early afternoon light makes a window-side table appealing, while in the evening the lamps glow warmly, just enough to let you click away on your laptop at one of the wireless internet ports. Choose from three different types of seating (quickly, since the room is intimate and seats are scant): the usual tables and chairs, high backless stools near the entrance or vibrant low sofa chairs in front of a coffee table.
The coffee menu isn't overly large-rather, it's appropriate. Try a standard brew or a select origin roast for slightly over $1, or order one of the many teas, which include Earl Grey, jasmine, black currant and herbed peppermint. The spiced chai is frothy and pungently delicious, and the vanilla latte has a perfect consistency, albeit a lighter coffee flavor.
Spring for an iced espresso drink on a hot day (even though they run about $3.50 and above), since the flavor shots make for a refreshingly filling ""adult smoothie."" If your budget won't allow that, you can ice any other drink for free. Try the hazelnut coffee or a mocha, warm or cold.
The other beverages at Indie give it even more local character. The Kilmers stock only Wisconsin beers-New Glarus, Sprecher, Capital Brewery-which are reasonably priced, from $3 to $3.75 for a bottle. And J.J. says the wine selection is simply composed of vintages they've tried and liked. Glasses run from $3.50 to $5.
Best of all are the sandwiches and desserts, which are substantially lower-priced than standard coffee shop fare. The focaccia sandwiches are huge, as are the lunch croissants (try the spinach feta variety). A chocolate croissant or a scone costs only $1.50, and other tempting desserts-pumpkin pie, Cabernet pear tarts and chocolate toffee mousse with Kahlua, to name just a few-run from $1.25 to $5.
All in all, Indie Coffee is an exquisite addition to the Madison coffee scene, and it will only get better with age.
