With no sign, a mess of construction next door and bicycles propped out front, one of Madison's best evening hangouts is easy to miss.
Nattspil, 211 King Street, fuses good food, a hip dining experience and reasonable prices. Unlike many of its restaurant and nightclub counterparts, with their garish illuminated signs and brassy exteriors, Nattspil, which is Norwegian for
ight play,"" presents itself subtly, almost to the point of inconspicuousness.
Despite its location next to the perennially popular Great Dane Brew Pub and a short walk away from upscale Capitol-square nightlife, Nattspil's unassuming red brick fa??ade and lack of any identifiable signage make finding this King Street bistro a bit of a challenge. Although its slightly esoteric nature may be initially off-putting to some, once inside, the restaurant's warm ambiance and perpetually convivial employees quickly dispel any notions of pretentiousness.
With an interior design that juxtaposes Asian, rustic, and Scandinavian elements, Nattspil offers a pleasant aesthetic experience, despite its ostensibly incongruent design influences. Opened last March by prominent Madison restaurateurs Prentice and Christopher Berge (the family that owns the Williamson street favorite Weary Traveler, in addition to the more formal Restaurant Magnus, and Blue Marlin), the stylistic influences reflect the owners' travels throughout Taiwan and Norway, as well as a touch of earthy Wisconsin charm. Soft lighting from suspended red and green paper lanterns illuminates lacquered, split-timbered booths and the large stone oven that serves as the restaurant's centerpiece. The rough-hewn but comfortable tree stumps that serve as stools at many of the restaurant's 15 tables are both charming and surprisingly stylish. When facing the back of the restaurant, patrons cannot resist being drawn to the immense, screen-printed photograph of a wizened, opium-smoking Taiwanese woman, whose smoke trail and rolled-leaf cigarette appear three-dimensional from a distance. Nearby, a massive, mechanical-looking wooden mold that was salvaged from the Beloit Ironworks dominates a side wall and provides a cold contrast to the establishment's otherwise organic warmth.
Menu items are exceptionally prepared and reasonably priced, and reflect the restaurant's various cultural influences as well as the chef's Californian culinary background. Entrees range from $6.50 for the smoked tomato with wilted spinach and arugula pizza, to $9.00 for the brick-baked mussels that maintained a clean flavor, despite their richness. Favorites include the Three Cup chicken, which combines lightly marinated chicken with fresh basil and caramelized garlic and ginger, and is served alongside steamed rice and a spicy tomato cucumber salad. The marinade's smooth, full-bodied flavor contrasted well with the ginger's tanginess and made for an intensely flavorful, yet not overpowering entr??e. The light and refreshing tomato cucumber salad was served in a moderately spicy vinaigrette that complimented the savory chicken well.
The Rosemary Swords, another popular menu item that consists of either lamb, swordfish or shrimp and andouille sausage (or a combination of all three options) skewered on rosemary sprigs and served atop a warm spinach and arugula salad should not be missed. Various specials, like a cool and refreshing yellow gazpacho or the subtly-flavored red snapper served over a creamy potato and celery root curry, are offered throughout the week. Additionally, because its kitchen stays open until 1 a.m., Nattspil offers a deliciously economical late night meal alternative that is far superior to the greasy pizza or tired burrito options State Street has to offer.
Even without its exceptional menu, Nattspil would still be a welcome addition to Madison's bar scene. Its drinks are fairly priced and made with aplomb (try the coffee-flavored signature drink, or delightfully well-balanced mojito). Throughout the evening, the music selection is aptly matched to the restaurant's relaxed environment and ranges from warm dub selections to darkly ambient tracks. Nightly after 10 p.m., Nattspil showcases Madison's vibrant DJ scene, as it opens its decks to both up-and-comers and well-established local DJs alike.
Overall, the restaurant succeeds in creating an ambience that is comfortably stylish and never feels like it's working too hard to be trendy. Intimate seating arrangements, low lighting and the restaurant's generally warm atmosphere make Nattspil ideal for dates, while a more open bar area with seating for moderate sized parties lends itself to outings with groups of friends. As with many of the capitol-area bars, the crowd is generally older but is comprised of an eclectic mix of both professionals and hipsters. During the week the bar is relatively uncrowded, so finding a table should be a simple affair, but expect a short wait if visiting late on the weekends. In keeping with its low-key style, Nattspil does not accept credit or check cards and does not have a phone line for taking reservations.
By offering inspired, reasonably priced food in a fashionable yet comfortable atmosphere, Nattspil distinguishes itself from its contemporaries and stands as one of Madison's best.
