8:45 a.m. is apparently too early for most patrons of the indoor Dane County Farmers' Market. Just before 9 a.m. Saturday, fewer than a dozen dedicated early-risers stood in line at the Madison Senior Center, 330 W. Mifflin St., to wait for their $7 organic breakfasts. A smattering of shoppers wandered among the few remaining vendors.
All that will change this weekend, however, when the first outdoor market of the season comes to Capitol Square. On Saturday, April 23, over 300 vendors will be stocked and ready at their stalls by 6 a.m.-and diehard market-goers will brave the chilly dawn trek up State Street to get the first taste of Madison's summer bounty.
Raspberry Royalty
One of those hundreds of stalls will be occupied by Paul and Louise Maki, who own Blue Skies Berry Farm in Brooklyn, Wis., about 20 miles south of Madison. Although in spring and early summer they have mostly vegetables for sale, the couple's true specialty will make its debut at the end of the season.
\Come August and September, it's raspberries,"" Louise Maki said. She described the berries' popularity with enthusiastic relish. ""They fly off the table-people who get there after nine or 10 in the morning don't even know we exist.""
""We're kind of the raspberry barons,"" she added.
In the meantime, Louise and Paul will sell asparagus, radishes, spinach, lettuce, beets and turnips at their stall on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, as well as a myriad of other gourmet vegetables. They'll be one of a multitude of vendors selling similar produce, so if you go, be sure you circle the Square to scope out prices before you buy.
Support from the Stars
The fresh produce grown by vendors like the Makis draws rave reviews from the upper echelon of the dining industry. When the couple travels to Chicago for the city's Wednesday farmers' market, they get business from area chefs who need specialty produce for their restaurants. Market vendors have celebrity customers in Madison, as well. Last Saturday, Tory Miller, incoming chef de cuisine at L'Etoile restaurant, 25 N. Pinckney St., was intently perusing the Market's leafy selections.
""You've really got to come and look every week ... it's just fantastic the things you can find,"" he said, gesturing to the half-dozen bags of spinach and greens he'd purchased.
Miller said he makes a concerted effort to cultivate close relationships with area farmers. For example, many Farmers' Market vendors make produce drops at L'Etoile each week. And while Miller noted it's tempting for restaurant chefs to indulge ""weird food trends"" with exotic cuisine, he said he prefers to work with staples from Madison growers.
""I'd rather support local agriculture and food,"" he said. ""You just start to care that much more.""
The outdoor market will feature more than just ""green things,"" although fruit and vegetables are always the main attraction. For example, Jerry, Arlene and John King will sell potted orchids, including one variety that smells temptingly of chocolate. Other non-produce wares at the Market include floral arrangements, honey and baked goods ranging from coconut macaroons to specialty breads.
Last Saturday, the indoor market featured live jazz by local musicians Doug Brown and Michelle DuVall. Although the outdoor market won't always offer organized concerts, street musicians-some talented, others just enthusiastic-will abound on State Street and the Square on Market days. And some State Street shops, eager for the influx of potential customers, will welcome the Market crowd by opening their doors early. Though spring will only have started two days before, the Farmer's Market April 23 will be Madison's most eagerly anticipated sign of summer.
