Madison restaurants come and go as quickly as patrons during the lunch hour. State Street has seen many a caf??, pub, and grill that has served up burgers, gyros, dumplings and noodles. What has remained steadfast through decades of change is the pervasive spirit of unique, locally owned establishments that offer a taste of something different. Real Chili, 449 State St., is the latest to be put to this test.
While its crisp, coordinated interior may lend the impression that Real Chili is another national restaurant chain attempting to invade Madison's downtown, the Milwaukee-based chili parlor has a storied history of family ownership and deep connections to its neighborhood.
According to third-generation owner Aaron Upton, Real Chili first opened for business in Milwaukee at the height of the Great Depression in 1931. A second store later opened in downtown Milwaukee and Real Chili became a neighborhood treasure since recognized by the Food Network as one of the nation's best 'delicious dives.'
'[Real Chili] was feeding a lot people for free for years,' Upton said, sitting at one of the restaurant's many hand-made tables. 'They then came back as regular customers.'
The Madison location opened in May and, according to Upton, business has been steadily increasing.
Upton has wanted to move Real Chili to Madison for some time. The majority of his customers in Milwaukee are college students and business people, two groups of clientele easily accessible in Madison.
'I've always liked Madison,' Upton said. 'The kids that go to UW are awesome. I'm really impressed. I wanted to be on State Street to create a bigger presence in Madison. State Street is in the middle of my customer base.'
Finding a niche
Real Chili is the latest eatery on a street that features menus from every nook and cranny of the culinary globe. Being a unique establishment is certainly not unique to State Street, and this attracts more specialty businesses to the area, according to Susan Schmitz, president of Downtown Madison, Inc.
'There is a strong market in downtown Madison,' Schmitz said. 'UW students and visitors have a huge economic impact on the area.'
Schmitz says that State Street's old buildings with small retail spaces have discouraged many national chains from setting-up shop, encouraging small business growth. This has created a one-of-a-kind haven for family-owned businesses and restaurants that have distinct appeals.
'People come to this community and find our downtown to be non-Anywhere, U.S.A.,' Schmitz said. 'If you are not unique, maybe [State Street] isn't the place for you.'
For Real Chili, being the only chili restaurant in the area is an obvious advantage.
'There isn't anything like us anywhere,' Upton said. 'We fill [the State Street] niche. Real Chili goes back to the roots of what State Street is and was.'
'Everybody fits in'
Customers return to Real Chili because of the interaction they have with the staff and each other, according to Upton.
'One of the cool things about this place,' Upton said, 'is that you either love it or you hate it. If you love it, you come back because it feels like you belong to a club. Being on State Street captures a different audience. You can come in here and sit down next to a guy off the street, a judge or a college student. Everybody fits in.'
Upton said he believes that Real Chili fits well on State Street because it is a place where anyone and everyone feels welcome to sit down at the counter and order a bowl to their liking. As owner, Upton is a key part of Real Chili's welcoming character. He is involved in establishing relationships with patrons by serving food and striking conversation.
'People like to know we are a family-owned restaurant,' Upton said. 'We are true to Wisconsin and the [downtown Madison] area.'
It is this feeling of community that has enthralled generations of Real Chili customers.
'The great thing about Real Chili is that it's the most egalitarian restaurant you can find,' said Jim Weis, who ate at the restaurant in Milwaukee in the late 1970s while attending Marquette Law School. 'Also, the chili kept me alive during the winter. It's the perfect place for a student.'
Weis' son Sam Weis, a UW-Madison sophomore, has also discovered his place at Real Chili, frequenting the new restaurant once a week. 'The food is great,' he said, 'and there's something unique about the atmosphere that keeps me coming back for more.'
