New York’s famous fashion week ended with a bang last week after eight days of runway shows previewing the trends for spring and summer 2013.
In the first few days, designer Jason Wu wowed with a collection more risqué than his usual. Wu’s sexy, sheer trends carried over into many designers’ collections that week. Even at the end of the week, designers like Narcisco Rodriguez highlighted a pared-down, black and white style theme that could make for a unique fashion season for spring and summer 2013.
It is very rare that one single trend comes on so strongly from almost every designer. Marc Jacobs’ looks were almost two-thirds entirely black or white.
His use of skin was also key to making his collection surprisingly fresh. Although Jacobs is known for favoring a “coveredup” girl, he featured low-slung skirts and high cut jackets that featured the model’s midriffs and hipbones. He used simple styles yet changed the amount of skin typically shown to make conventional clothes sexy, without being too vulgar or too showy.
Both Alexander Wang and Cushnie et Ochs did almost entirely black and white collections as well. Both heavily featured cut-outs but Wang’s were more geometric and “tron-like” while Cushnie et Ochs’ had a gentler feel. Both designers also used leather quite a bit, which was surprisingly common among collections considering the warm spring season.
Proenza Schouler primarily focused on keeping their leather light and appropriate for spring by using it in a patchwork, collage way in jackets and dresses.
However, not all designers used leather in this way. Wu’s use of leather was meant to be more menacing and sexy than springtime sweet. Wu said he was inspired by photographer Helmet Newton’s retrospective, shown earlier this year at the Grand Palais.
Newton’s S&M shots gave Wu inspiration to work lace and leather into an incredibly chic, elegant collection. He accessorized with leather harnesses, black veils and the same red lipstick worn by models in some of Newton’s photographs, but still maintained the ladylike quality he is well-known for.
Another designer to wow was Diane Von Furstenberg who partnered with Google to use the latest technology of the season in her show. All of Von Furstenberg’s models wore Explorer Edition Google Glasses, which retail at $1,500. The small cameras on the glasses allow footage to be shot from the model’s perspective, which Von Furstenburg’s team will use to create a short documentary film, debuting later this week.
Google also notes the glasses can be used for photo sharing, video chat, shopping and line-of-sight direction display. New York Fashion Week certainly did not disappoint its not only well-dressed, but critical fashion industry audience.
Designers at this year’s fashion week had a clear response to the overly loud trends of the past and didn’t fail to present stunning collections that gave freshness to timeless trends.
