Food is more than a meal — it’s a bridge to home, culture and community, offering a taste of connection sometimes continents away.
For two local businesses in Madison, it’s become a way for two immigrant families to share a small piece of their homeland with the world.
How food becomes ‘the great connector’
The first thing Tamaki did when I entered the store was offer me a drink and mochi — free of charge.
“You don’t even have to interview me,” Tamaki said. “Just take some time off, relax.”
This welcoming atmosphere is exactly how Tamaki has kept Oriental Shop running since 1979. Her inviting presence and willingness to chat draws in new customers and has kept the old ones returning for over 40 years.
Japanese native Tamaki first came to Madison in the 1970s looking for a business to run, but what she found instead was a husband. Kuang immigrated from Taiwan to the United States to attend college at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, but after meeting Tamaki, he dropped out of his mathematics program to run a specialty Japanese food store with his now-wife.
“This store is like a galaxy, and everything on the shelves is a star in the night sky,” Kuang said.
At Oriental Shop, 1029 South Park St., customers can find everything from handmade plates to cuts of sushi-grade fish and import-only snacks, all curated by Tamaki and her husband.
“It’s not just for Japanese [people] but for everyone who’s gone to Japan, who likes Japanese food. It's nice to have that community and food in Madison,” Tamaki said.
Oriental Shop is just one of the thousands of immigrant-owned businesses in Wisconsin. Yet in the wake of President Donald Trump’s crackdown on immigrants in the U.S., some within the Madison immigrant community feel it is being “torn apart.”
“It's about survival,” Tamaki said. She worries “every day” about the Trump administration’s decisions but tries to keep her mind off of the news with work, using her store as a way to stay connected to the people of Madison and a distraction from politics.
Sophia Pezua, one of the four siblings who co-own the Peruvian restaurant Estacion Inka on University Avenue, said she worries about Trump’s vocal support of deportation and expanded use of U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE), but she and her siblings don’t let it get in the way of running their two businesses.
“If we focus too much on what's going to happen, we take away the energy that we need for dealing with what's happening right now,” Sophia said. “Being able to get to the end of the pay period and knowing that you have the funds to pay your employees, that's the most rewarding feeling for us.”
First opening in 2019, Estacion Inka blends traditional Peruvian food inspired by their mother’s home-cooked meals with the experiences the siblings gained after immigrating to the U.S. from Peru.
At first, being split between two countries made them feel like outsiders, belonging to neither America nor Peru. But over time, Sophia said Madison has “definitely embraced” them, transforming their sense of isolation into a deeper understanding of community — one that shapes how they run their restaurant today.
This understanding flows deeper than simply mixing cuisines on a menu. Sophia and her siblings use their experiences to create a truly welcoming atmosphere at the restaurant.
The open-air floor plan, delicious aroma and warm Peruvian music blending through the speakers allows the Pezuas to “create a space where people can just come in and feel like they’re part of the extended family,” Sophia said. The Pezuas give Madison natives, solo travelers and immigrants alike a warm sense of familiarity, even if they might’ve never stepped foot inside before.
Nothing highlights the feeling of being a part of the Pezua family more than eating their famous Lomo Saltado, though.
Sophia said that growing up poor in their small mountain town meant meals like Lomo Saltado were few and far between, but on the rare occasions, the Pezuas’ mom made such a meal.
“The aroma of Lomo Saltado was very particular, so we knew that as soon as we opened the door, and the aroma wafted in, Mom had made us something delicious,” Sophia said.
Drawing inspiration from their mom’s version of the meal, Estacion Inka’s version of Lomo Saltado has become one of their most popular dishes, allowing the siblings to relive their precious memories every single day.
The Pezuas’ mom, who is now 84, loves visiting her children’s restaurant whenever she can and is “so proud” of what they’ve been able to accomplish.
“And we're so proud of her too. We are where we are now because of her effort and her care while growing up,” Sophia said.
Tamaki also drew inspiration from her mom, using her love for and technical knowledge of cooking as the spark to start Oriental Shop. Eventually, Tamaki’s mom even helped open the store.
That feeling of pride, happiness and shared connection is something that the Pezuas and Tamaki both share in common, their love of food and home uniting both natives and travelers alike.
Just as Lomo Saltado gives customers a window into Sophia’s childhood home in Peru, the carefully curated shelves of Oriental Shop give Tamaki the ability to share her time in Japan with others. Both shops invite customers into their own curated galaxy — each dish, each item on a shelf, each memory of home, shining like stars in the night sky.
